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Work in Progress
I have been planning to add a massage section to this site for a long time. However, there are so many massage shops in Hat Yai that getting started has been a daunting task.
There are many places that I haven't yet covered but I am planning to add more over time. If you would like to provide feedback for somewhere that I haven't covered yet, please do so and I will add it sooner rather than later.
Feedback can be sent to: phil@phil.uk.net
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Introduction
Many Malaysians and Singaporeans make frequent visits to Hat Yai for various reasons. One reason that almost all of them have in common is the opportunity to enjoy very cheap massages.
Cheap massage is a big tourist draw all over Thailand, not just in Hat Yai. It encourages tourists to spend their money in Thailand and it also provides employment for many poor girls from other regions of Thailand, as well as from neighbouring countries.
I arrived in Hat Yai as a single man and for many years took the opportunity to enjoy massages at ridiculously cheap prices. On average, I probably went for massages three times a week and sampled almost every massage shop in Hat Yai.
Some places charge just Bt200 for a two hour massage. In Singapore where there are Thai girls doing exactly the same thing in little massage shops, the price is well over Bt1,000 an hour. In central London a two hour Thai massage might cost you anything up to Bt5,000.
Places like London and Singapore have lots to offer but everything is expensive. Rural Thailand can't offer the same things as big cities in developed countries, but there are certain advantages ... such as cheap massage.
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Visitor Feedback
If you have visited a Hat Yai massage shop and would like to provide some feedback for this site I would really appreciate your input. The same applies for hotels, restaurants, and anything else in Hat Yai that you would care to comment on.
There is nothing I regard as being more important than real feedback and it really helps other people who visit this site.
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Defining Massage in Thailand
Massage is a very broad and euphemistic term in Thailand. At the 'hot bath and massage' places (aap op nuat) there is no massage at all because these places sell a very different thing.
There are genuine traditional Thai massage shops where trained practitioners offer massage for medical purposes. There aren't actually too many of these places.
In tourist areas there are LOTS of 'massage for pleasure' shops where poor girls from the north and northeast regions of Thailand, and also from neighbouring countries, have found work. Generally, they don't provide sex (although some do) and neither are they alternative medicine practitioners, but the service they provide can be quite enjoyable.
The girls doing the massage for pleasure don't have much training but some have been doing the job for a long time and although they might not be able to treat a specific medical condition they can provide a good experience.
On the other hand, some of the girls aren't very good at all. The ones who have only just started don't know what they're doing and others simply have a bad attitude. I've been for quite a few massages where the girl turns the A/C on full and then watches TV while performing a perfunctory kneading action on various parts of my body.
Depending on the kind of massage you want, you can find it somewhere in Thailand, and if you visit enough massage shops you can find which places are best. This guide, hopefully, along with any visitor feedback I receive will help to identify the best places to go in Hat Yai.
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Types of Massage
The massage on offer falls into three types: traditional Thai massage, oil massage (the Thai pronunciation is 'oy'), and foot massage.
Traditional Thai massage is designed to work on the musculo-skeletal system and with some masseuses it can be quite painful. If carried out gently it can be quite relaxing, but there is a kind of 'no pain - no gain' mentality in Thailand. Many masseuses seem to want customers to experience some pain, and some customers feel cheated if they walk out without feeling any pain.
Considering that Thai massage is performed in many places by girls who have had only a few days informal training and no proper training at all, there are a few things that concern me.
Some girls will walk on your back. I don't mind if they are small but the larger ones feel quite heavy. When they do this I can't relax and tense my body to try to prevent them snapping anything.
The girls also like to crack joints. I have never cracked my own knuckles and don't particularly enjoy other people doing it to me. I normally let them crack my finger and toe joints, but never let them crack my neck.
I wasn't sure if cracking joints caused any problems later in life with arthritis, etc. According to a report by the BBC, it doesn't. In most cases it has no effect, and it can actually help.
Does cracking your knuckles cause arthritis?
If you don't feel comfortable with anything, simply tell the girl and she will stop. The girls are normally quite obliging and will do what you ask ... within limits.
Oil massage can vary enormously. At some places - normally spas - you will listen to relaxing music while an elegant Thai girl soothes your body slowly and gently with essential oils. At other places the girls act as if they are desperately trying to rescucitate a corpse. There is nothing slow or gentle at all regarding their massage technique and the oil might resemble something found in a chip shop.
Whereas the better places use good quality aromatherapy oils, a few cheaper shops use the cheapest oil they can get hold of. At one place where I went for a few oil massages I subsequently broke out in ugly spots and ended up visiting a dermatologist.
Foot massage also varies. All foot massage shops display fancy reflex charts on the wall but not many masseuses know where the reflex points actually are or what bodily organs they relate to.
A properly trained reflexologist will watch the customer's face to detect when there is pain and will associate this reaction to a problem in a particular part of the body.
In most Thai foot massage shops this doesn't happen. It's really a foot rub instead of being true reflexology. However, if you've been walking all day and have aching feet then a good foot rub can be very enjoyable.
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Customer Differences
Hat Yai massage girls have lots more Thai and ethnic-Chinese customers than farangs. Most farangs enjoy a gentle, soothing massage but most Asian customers like a really hard massage.
For this reason farangs may need to tell their Hat Yai massage girl to be more gentle ("bao bao"). If, on the other hand, you want a harder massage, tell her, "nuk nuk."
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Spas
A number of places have opened up that refer to themselves as spas, rather than simply massage shops. They are more expensive but offer a very different experience.
The service is less hurried and the massage girls more attentive. They offer beauty treatments as well as massage and have facilities such as saunas and steam rooms.
A few are quite upmarket and expensive but some places, such as Preuksa Spa, offer a much better experience than a normal massage shop without being that much more expensive.
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Location and discounts
Most of the larger hotels have their own in-house massage shops. Anyone can use them and you don't need to be staying at the hotel.
There are also a number of independent massage shops that are located in the central tourist district around Lee Gardens Plaza. Once you get into residential areas away from the tourist areas, the number of massage shops decreases dramatically.
Price fixing cartels are very common in Thailand. Taxi drivers get together and set artificially high prices for certain routes, such as from the middle of town to the airport. It's an unfair way of keeping prices artificially high but if no one breaks the cartel it's a system that works for the business owners.
Massage shops in central Hat Yai do the same thing. If you go to a shop at a busy time they will tell you the standard price and not offer any discount.
There are various ways you can pay less. You can sometimes get a discount during quiet times when business is slack. The ability to speak some Thai also comes in very useful when trying to negotiate discounts.
Finding places not located in the central tourist area will save you money. For example, places in town will ask Bt250 for a foot massage but I've found places away from the tourist areas where the price is Bt100.
Some travel agents sell discount coupons. For example, just around the corner to the Sakura hotel is a small travel agent that sells massage coupons for the Sakura massage shop for Bt260. The normal price is Bt300 so you make a small saving.
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Tipping
If the total price of your massage is Bt240 (or maybe Bt200), the girl will only earn about Bt80 for two hours work.
The girls work from early in the morning until late at night and they only get three days off each month. They need to pay for somewhere to live and they need to buy food and other things.
Any money left over is normally sent back to their families. In short, their lives aren't much fun at all.
I have never not given a tip - even if the girl was completely uninterested in giving me a decent massage and just sat there watching TV.
Don't be mean. Even if you give a Bt100 tip, the total cost is still a lot less than you would pay at home.
One massage girl I was talking to went to a hotel room with a friend to give two Chinese Malaysians a massage. The girls were given a Bt10 tip between them. Even in Thailand where the cost of living is cheaper than the West, a Bt5 tip doesn't go very far.
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Extra Services for Gentlemen
Everyone knows the reputation Thailand has (and it is well deserved). Poor Thai girls doing massage only do it for the money and nothing else. They might only earn Bt80 for a two hour massage and the rest will go to the shop. Some girls get tips but many customers are quite stingy.
If the girl can perform an extra little service which puts Bt500 into her pocket she might be tempted because it is a lot of money to her. Some girls may provide extra services in a hotel room but not in the shop where they work. However, many massage girls won't provide extra services under any circumstances, so respect their decision and don't push it. Don't assume anything or take anything for granted simply because you are in Thailand. The country is a lot more conservative than you may think.
I remember reading about a Russian tourist in Pattaya who insisted on groping a massage girl who wasn't interested and he ended up getting arrested.
Don't expect too much, apart from maybe a happy ending to your massage. If this is what interests you, there are a few places where this kind of service is easier to find.
If you want any more than this, then there are lots of other options in Hat Yai where the girls will offer more than a massage. If you're not sure where to go, the magic words are aap op nuat.
At some places you may be asked if you require a 'ping-pong' massage; 'ping-pong balls' being an idiom for testicles because of their size and shape. If you say yes, thinking you're going to get a happy ending to your massage, the girl will go off to get another (normally older) woman trained in the art of testicle massage. Some men like this kind of massage, while others don't. Expect to pay extra for this service if it interests you. The going rate seems to be about Bt200.
For some reason, this type of testicle massage is quite often referred to as prostrate massage. I didn't pay much attention to the term at first until someone wrote asking me for more details. He correctly pointed out that in order to massage the prostrate it would be necessary for the masseuse to insert her fingers up your back passage. This could actually be quite dangerous.
Picture of the prostrate
This doesn't happen (as far as I am aware). The term 'prostrate massage' is misleading and the Thai term 'ping pong' is far more accurate for what they actually do. The purpose of this kind of massage, I am told, is to heighten the man's libido.
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Masseuses
I once had a massage at Glenwood Springs in Colorado and was slightly shocked to find out that my masseuse was the same sex as me.
It shouldn't matter, of course, but I feel more comfortable with female masseuses and the massage industry in Thailand is dominated by females. The exception is at the foot massage places where there are often males working as well.
Some ethnic-Chinese visitors prefer a male masseuse because they are stronger and can give a harder massage. Some women visitors prefer a male masseuse for the same reason that many men prefer a female masseuse.
Finding male masseuses for foot massage isn't a problem, but it could be a problem finding a male masseuse for Thai or oil massage. I believe there are a few places, but these places are intended for gay men rather than for women. I don't know anything about the gay scene in Hat Yai.
Regarding the girls working as masseuses, there is so much variation with every facet of life in Thailand that whenever you make a generalisation it isn't long before you are proven wrong.
In the more upmarket spas and massage shops you will find some very conservative local girls. The cheaper places tend to employ girls from poor parts of Thailand. They also employ girls from Burma, and maybe even China.
The Burmese girls work even cheaper than Isaan girls. The shops give them Thai nicknames and unless you can speak Thai you may never know where they actually come from.
If you can speak Thai and talk with the girls you will hear a recurring story. Many of the girls had a child in their teens and as soon as they got pregnant the teenage father disappeared. Their children are being taken care of by their parents back in their villages, while they work at the other end of the country sending money back each month. I must have heard this story a hundred times.
The majority of tourists in Hat Yai are ethnic-Chinese from Malaysia and Singapore who have a preference for girls with light skin. Many of the girls are fair-skinned and many speak Chinese, whereas not many have very good English skills.
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Choosing Girls
The woman in charge of the shop (the captain) who asks you what you want will happily make a selection for you. This being the case, she will no doubt select the toothless old hag in the corner who never gets chosen by any customers.
The same applies if you call a massage shop and ask them to send a girl to your room. On my wedding day we had a couple of spare hours in the afternoon between the morning ceremony and evening reception. I called a massage shop to get two girls sent over for me and my new wife.
The two women they sent had foul mouths, terrible massage techniques, and referred to me repeatedly as farang. It was an awful experience and I would always recommend choosing the girl yourself.
It used to be the case that the girls sat on display in an open area or 'goldfish bowl' waiting to be selected. Some years ago, a law was passed and they are now all hidden behind partition walls. However, you can still view the girls in order to make your selection.
One massage shop in Hat Yai had a policy at one time whereby customers couldn't choose. They said that the girl's look weren't important. I don't think this policy was very popular and they dropped it.
Some of the spas work on a rotation basis, therefore, you can't choose. If you can choose, it isn't always necessarily best to choose the best looking or youngest girl. The young girls new to the job can be painfully shy and spoil the experience. The girls with a few year's experience behind them normally give you a better experience.
Not all girls can perform every type of massage. They can all do the traditional Thai massage, but not necessarily oil or foot massage. The captain will tell you which girls can do what.
Normally the girls wear badges with a number on. The badges are sometimes colour-coded to indicate what type of massage the girl can do.
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Outcalls
Some people prefer to have a massage in the comfort of their hotel room, rather than go outside to a shop. Anything and everything is available in Thailand and you will always find someone willing to oblige.
Regarding outcalls, the policy of individual shops varies enormously. Some promote outcalls and are very happy to offer the service. At other places, if you enquire about outcalls they give a disgusted look as if you are a pervert. I've tried to indicate in my listings whether outcalls are allowed or not.
If you call your hotel reception they can arrange for a masseuse to visit your room. If the hotel has a massage shop AND if the shop allows outcalls, this is where the girl will come from.
If not, they will call somewhere that does provide such a service. Be aware that if you don't choose the girl yourself, the masseuse that eventually turns up may not be the epitome of Thai refinement and beauty.
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The Thai Ear Tickle
On one trip to Singapore I passed a small massage shop and saw a sign in the window offering the Thai ear tickle. I knew what it meant as I had been for many massages in Hat Yai and some girls had performed the ear tickle on me. You certainly won't get your ears tickled at one of Hat Yai's spas, and this isn't anything that will be taught at a kosher Thai massage school.
Some girls at some places do it, and apparently some customers like it. I'm not a big fan. I find it quite irritating and as soon as they have finished I can't wait to give my ears a good scratch to relieve the irritation.
Towards the end of the massage, after lying on your front and back, the girl will sit up and rest your head in her lap while she massages your head. After the head massage she may or may not administer the ear tickle. Remember, only some girls do it.
If she does, she will pull a hair out of her own head and tie a small knot in it. Alternatively, some girls keep ready-knotted hairs in a drawer for this purpose if there is a convenient drawer in the room.
She then inserts the hair into your ear until it is quite a way into the ear canal and twiddles it between her thumb and fingers. It sounds quite loud, because it is so close to your eardrum, and it does indeed tickle. You will either enjoy this treatment or you won't.
If you wish to receive the Thai ear tickle and it isn't offered by the girl, you can ask if she can do it: "bpun hoo dai mai?"
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Massage Shop Listings
Page 1 of 3. For more listings see Page 2 and Page 3.
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